Snow on peaks

Snow on peaks

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

The Goat Sacrifice


Foreword:  “If you kill a goat to make yourself a sandwich, you have committed an error. If you kill a goat with reverence and gratitude in order to feed a community, you have taken responsibility for feeding yourself and your people and you have done an honorable thing.” 
 Loosely translated from the TIBETAN BOOK OF THE DEAD – Kitty Snead

By 10 a.m. two male goats, one white and one black appeared and they were tightly tied to small trees at the west end of the dance floor.  Nabor had tied the white one and it could stand, head bowed and contemplate its fate.  The black goat had more slack in its rope and could move and jerk at its tether when we walked by.
Lionilo built the simple altar near the center of the patio.  A raised, two plank table on 6 spindly legs with three crosses rising from the back.  It was unmistakably an altar-- stark, primal...sacred.  I photographed the simple structure from both front and back and I photographed the two hapless goats.  Then the thought occurred to me to stand in the ravine where the black pipe supplied us with mountain spring water.  So balanced on small rocks, trying not to get my feet wet, I found an angle where I might frame the goat in the foreground with the altar and the mountains behind.
I was a little anxious.  Nabor indicated with his finger that a knife would be inserted into the neck of the goats at the jugular.  We laughed.  Nabor gestured and spoke of sending the goat to heaven to be with God and then he pointed to his stomach and I replied stumbling through, "gracias por su sacrificio por neuestra comida--barbocoa!"  Then for just a second our eyes met in a serious moment between us.
By noon, I was hot and tired of waiting on the sacrificing part to start.  I was determined to photograph the ritual.  But the Raramuri were waiting--(I think now) for the hot, still part of the day when women grind corn and visit and babies sleep.  That exact moment to commit the very deliberate act of taking a life without hesitancy, or trifling or any sort of dishonor.  I know this now but on Wednesday I was only hot, tired and restless so I told Lionilo and Clemente to "wake me for the sacrifice."  They nodded in agreement and I went off behind the hut to rest in the shade.  I dozed but awoke when I heard a muffled cry.  I jerked to my feet, grabbed my camera bag and shot around the corner to see the white goat on the ground, feet bound, with two holes--on each side of its neck-- being bled out into a large wooden bowl.  My first thought was "shit, I've missed the stabbing part!"  I noticed Chico and Lionilo held the goat's head still and one held its mouth closed to muffle its cries.  It was eerily quiet, the mood was somber, nothing stirred--no breath of air in the heat and glare of the mid day sun.
I began to photograph the event: the head, the bowl of blood, the long dagger with blood on its pointed end.  At some point in my photographing, the reality of the situation worked its way into my subconsious.  This death was both slow and painful and the men were very patient and quiet in the their handling of the animal.  When the goat was bled out, the bowl of blood was removed and raised to the sky, a prayer was offered which I could barely hear and certainly could not understand and blood was flung on the patio floor in a circular motion to the 4 directions.  Then the bowl was set upon the altar.
If I had missed the stabbing of the white goat, I was fully present for the second, black goat's mortal wounds.  The entire process seemed like a long time because I wanted the killing part to be instantaneous and painless like dying in one's sleep.  But most of the time death takes a while or rather life takes its time leaving.  THE HEART, the mind, the body struggles to overcome death, almost to the end--bleeding out.

There was one moment when the black goat was "left for dead" when the prayers and blood had been offered up to the heavens and scattered on the earth, and I photographed the head resting on its horns, chin pointed skyward, mouth slightly ajar, the opened eye's blank death stare and the altar in the background.
I was low to the ground on both knees, the animal jerked one last time and I shot to my feet.  Dusting the dirt and small rocks from my pants, I noticed I had knelt in some of the offered blood.  I walked rapidly and consciously washed my pants in the nearby running water.  My prayer--"keep death from my door a little while longer."
OH GOD!!
That was the last conscious thing I did for a while.  The men asked if I was alright--I nodded, yes, yes, I was fine but somewhat dazed and thinking about death, both my own and that of my friends and family.  It was time for honoring death and the part it plays in nurturing the living--the dancing, the drinking and the feasting, all saluting life.
Reading my notes from that day and sitting here now in this room in Dallas, sliding in and out of time between worlds, I feel strangely disorientated.  So I offer these journal notes and photographs as proof of this existing, parallel world.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Expedition Notes December 2008

This is the day we load the mules and leave the warmth and comfort of Marta’s Norogachi B & B. We will not travel far in order to camp in lovely caves our first night out. Of course I’m more than a little anxious & excited. I’ve made this trip before during spring, climbing up over the Continental Divide and dropping down into the valley at Nararachi. In spring just before Easter the world warms & wakes. Now in early December the world grows cold and the nights, long. This is the time for earth’s energies to retreat & rest.
Day Two:  Yesterday’s ride was over easy terrain through high pine forests and rancherias. Santiago and Hiram scouted the trails earlier in November and for our first camp site Santiago chose the perfect cave for me –clean & private. This was my first night to use the new cot and I’m already addicted to the comfort of not having to crawl around on the ground.   
                During the night the drums started and echoed through out the night. There’s a ritual going on over the next hill, possibly a peyote healing. This is the season. Earlier in the evening I saw two men on the path just below our camp pushing a wheel barrel filled with wood. These are signs of a communal gathering.
My cave is warmed by the early morning sun. The view of fallow corn fields stretching out to meet low mountains on the horizon glows golden in this light. Nearby a determined pine grows out of a boulder. These craggy rocks, fields, pines and distant mountains are a photograph waiting in silence.  I linger here in my warm cocoon just a while longer. Santiago is bringing me coffee in bed!! This is a first. How delicious. And then the journey begins again; the trail stretches out before us.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

One viewer at a time

It is my intention that as many people as possible become familiar with my work with the Tarahumara through my blog site. Others have photographed the Tarahumara, but few have the depth of experience that I have had with the people and their culture.
Please feel free to forward this link to anyone you know that has an interest in culture, travel, and photography.  If you choose to comment on the blog it will be helpful to me as comments and followers seem to build more audience in the Google “empire”.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Mate chines at Night






AS ABOVE SO BELOW    

It is Christmas Eve 2008 and I find myself on the high mesa above Nararachi watching the Mate chine dance. We are gathered in front of Claus Deimel’s stone hut and this night, clear, crisp without wind, is a perfect moment in time. We are here to celebrate in the face of winter’s chill with feasting and dancing. 

The area around the dancing floor is dotted with small fires to warm the on lookers and light the dance.  Satiated with food and drink I am easily lulled into a trance by hypnotic music – repetitive refrains of violins punctuated by rhythmic stomping of booted feet on hard packed dirt and rock.

The Mate chine dancers, their faces masked by darkness, are imposing larger than life figures with their flowing robes and mirrored crowns trailing long, colorful ribbons. They, spin, circle and march weaving this ‘Old World’ Round taken from Conquistadores into a dazzling tapestry of sound and movement. For centuries this ritual act has stood as testament to the glorious, ephemeral triumph of the indigenous spirit.

Above the heavens are filled with stars beyond number, points of light, that seem in the high, thin air to send silvery strands to earth inviting the gathered company to climb towards unknown galaxies. Below men dance with mirrored crowns catching and reflecting light sending flashes out into the night inviting ‘the people’ to rise and complete their earthly journey.  

Here on the high mesa and on this night sparks from the human spirit light the night and seem to say, “Dance under heaven. Dance through darkness. Dance through fear.”

 Kitty Alice Snead

I wish to acknowledge Clause Deimel’s efforts in the Tarahumara community around Nararachi and his years of sponsorship of the dance. And I wish to thank my guide Santiago James Barnaby for taking me there.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Solitude

To be on top of the world
         alone, apart in starlight
                  mountains gathered darkly around me.

To be on top of the world
         to hear frost in the air;
                  to experience the silence with awe and gratitude.

To be on top of the world
               in shimmering light
                                held by earth’s dark giants.

To be on top of the world
                alone, apart and
                                  intensely alive in the land of the Tarahumara.